2023 Eastern US Bike Adventure

  Stanley and I took the train to Pittsburgh in early September to meet up with my ride buddy from Ohio, to ride both the GAP (Great Alleghany Passage) and the C&O trail to Washington DC. After a confusing maze of detours to bypass a closed section of the beginning of the route, we met up and started our journey with a jolt of caffeine at Starbucks, almost on the trail. No rush. Short day.
   We arrived West Newton Gap Campground about 26 miles later, and checked in to this amazing campground with unusual amenities for a hiker biker campground including a beautiful outdoor shower. Our next day was to be a long one, but we cut it short about 10 miles due to heavy rain and rode about 43 miles. We lucked out and found a secluded and covered area in a local park, just off the trail.
   Day 3 destination was Meyersdale, and the slow, slight climb was relentless but would be over in another day. The trail itself was being re surfaced on this stretch with ground clay mixed with gravel. The fresh surface was a bit soft for riding but we’re glad it drained well so we had no issues with puddles or mud. We stayed at another hiker biker camp, and by end of the day it was quite crowded with fellow travelers.  It was a treat to share a beer and meet the other travelers.
  Day four brought us to the Continental Divide (all downhill from here!) and into Cumberland, the end of the GAP and beginning of C&O, where we shared a hotel and ate too much. The next day was a zero day to wash stuff, dry out, and provision for the trip on to Washington DC.
  My ride buddy rides a bike Friday and loves her (christened “Cutie” on Day 5), as he had recently returned from her maiden adventure, riding from Paris to Romania. We were quite surprised to encounter three fellow travelers on Bike Fridays.  Needless to say, lots of conversation and discussion about the virtues of these 20” wheeled workhorses which I just found out are manufactured in Oregon.
  The trail got rough and rocky as we had been warned, but it didn’t last forever and it was trending downhill.  We were curious about a town named Paw Paw so took a short detour to check it out and enjoyed our lunch in a local park.  Next up was the historic Paw Paw tunnel which had been closed for repairs for several years.  We were fortunate to not have to do the hike a bike over and around the closure as the tunnel had recently opened.  The narrow pathway next to the canal was rough and very dark, so walking was a no brainer.
  Speaking of paw paw, we did some googling and discovered that it’s a fruit and after that we saw them everywhere along the trail, in various states of ripeness.  To me they looked like slimy stuff one didn’t eat, but they appear to be popular.  My ride buddy got his share and enjoyed eating them until they got stinky and very over ripe; the smell didn’t encourage fellow travelers to stop and visit on their way in the other direction.
  The campgrounds along the C&O appeared every 8 to 10 miles and all had at least one picnic table, a toilet, and non drinkable water.  We were able to water up at various locations, knowing we’d have to filter if we wanted to drink the pump water.  We were usually riding along the Potomac River on one side and the remains of the canal on the other side.  Having the river right there was quite nice for evening relaxing and washing up. Each campsite has a name, and the sign includes distance to next so picking a free campsite was easy and I could practice not planning every crank of Stanley’s wheels.
  As we approached the city of Hancock, I had heard of a 26 mile paved bypass, which we located and enjoyed this smooth ride which paralleled the C&O. The map I purchased showing all the towns, services, and all the campgrounds along the way (both for GAP and C&O) was very valuable and we used it often during the trip. When we arrived in Hancock, it was absolutely pouring and cold.  We took a long lunch break, bringing our dripping selves into a fast food place, to discuss plans.  We decided to share a hotel in nearby Williamsburg, which was a great treat.  At this point, we’d ridden about 230 miles of the 330 or so miles to Washington DC.
  Our next day was a longer than most but the gentle descent and improved trail conditions made 54 miles not so bad.  Our camp for this night was Bald Eagle campground and without realizing it, it was the worst camp ever, only because the frequent trains raced by, close enough to vibrate the ground and sounding like we were going to get run over.  Skip this camp unless you have extra heavy duty ear plugs!
  Riding a pleasant 35 or so miles toward Swain Lock, our last campground on the C&O, we saw large, snapping turtles, wild turkeys, and deer.  First time we had seen much of any wildlife other than the turtles.
  Swain Lock campground, being close to the city, had several apparently long term tents and car campers, which is not legal but there they were.  We had no problems other than a woman shouting in the distance every so often. I proceeded on to Arlington, VA to an Air B&B I had reserved, while my ride buddy camped another couple of nights.
  As it turned out, the influence of a hurricane was causing dangerous riding conditions on the day we were heading to Fredericksburg, on a route of our own design.  We opted to rent a one way U Haul truck. We parted company i Fredericksburg, as he was heading home and I had the luxury of yet another hotel while waiting a train to take me to Richmond VA to a delightful Warmshowers host.
  After that, it was a mix of trains and riding which ultimately put me in Salisbury, NC, my final destination.  After spending several very special days with my cousin there, I boarded the train (sleeper car please!) for the long trip home.
  While lounging on the train, I began thinking about what’s up for next year…I’ve heard good things about the cycling in Wisconsin but I’ve always wanted to do some kind of trip into British Columbia. I have already committed to an early 2024 supported trip in Death Valley with Bicycle Adventures, hoping to see lots of blooming flowers. More to come…