Fair warning - this is a long report! Usually, the train ride is uneventful. This time, the adventure started within a few hours of departure on Amtrak, heading for Seattle to connect to the eastbound train to Chicago. About an hour from Seattle, at a regular stop, I was asked to gather my stuff and get off the train. Huh?? I was advised the tracks were blocked ahead, and I’d not likely make my connection with the eastbound train. Amtrak staff put me, my bags, and Stanley in an Uber to drive me to Seattle. The Amtrak staff was efficient and helpful as they always have been for me. We easily made the connection, loaded Stanley in the baggage car, and took up my coach seat for the 40 something hour trip to Chicago. Lots of smelly people on the train this trip, a disadvantage of riding in coach! Arrived at the Chicago HI Hostel for a quick night and surprisingly hearty free breakfast before heading north the next day. The early days of riding were hard! Hot and constant headwind following routes north along Lake Michigan made for some serious suffering and slow going. Thanks to my patient friends whom I texted often to whine but their support really kept me going. The beauty of this route is the many bicycle pathways, most of which are paved. Day 1 was just under 50 miles and on these bikeways: Lakefront Trail, Chicago Avenue Bikeway, Green Bay Trail, Robert McClory Trail. Day 2 ended with about 56 miles; too much too soon for me with Stanley weighing in about 70 pounds loaded. I incorporated electrolytes into my fluid intake and it made a huge difference. My suffering continued but Day 3 was worse yet with 60 miles to a state park and bonus miles of course. The good part is that all but about 5 miles was on a bike path. The only downside of these paved bike paths are the numerous expansion joints which make for a bumpy ride. Arrived at the state park at the end of the long 60 miles and found the camp host right away. I immediately collapsed at her picnic table and requested a campsite. Wisconsin claims to have a no turn away policy but I had read the fine print and it’s not necessarily so. Anyway, the host was visiting with some other campers who invited me to share their campsite and offered me beer and pizza. A miserable day had just turned into a great one. Still moving northward on the way to Washington Island (the northern most point on a peninsula in Wisconsin) I rode on the next few days with somewhat less miles but still dealing with the headwind and heat. Still enjoying multiple bikeways, I picked up the Ahnapee Trail in Keawaunee for about 20 miles to next campground. I missed a turn off the trail and ended up in the small town of Luxumburg. After 54 miles I was done. I stopped into a local farm supply store and asked if I could pay someone to take me to Algoma. The owner and his wife generously offered to drive me and Stanley and refused to take any money at all. They were both kind and interesting local farmers and business owners. It’s always a blessing to experience the kindness of strangers! Arriving at The Timberline Campground in Algoma, the host showed generosity by giving me a free beer and tokens for the shower. Beautiful campground and as expected no one in the tent area. I would have liked to stay another day as they had a swimming pool, a petting farm, and a playground with a nice community area. Exceptionally clean and quiet! From Algoma, made my way onto Bayshore Road from the Ahanapee Trail where the rich and probably famous live. Low traffic mostly, quiet except for the new construction then there was Juddville Hill Road. Any road with “hill” in it is a warning. No way I could have ridden this, but pushing a loaded bike was not fun either. Made a stop at a little turnout, leaned Stanley against a bench and even he was so tired he collapsed and bench and he went down. I could not pick him up but thankfully a parks guy drove by and he helped me. We had a nice conversation about winter ice fishing and living in this beautiful area of Door County. Next day was on to Washington Island ferry to the campground on the island. The roads are amazingly quiet, mostly flat to rolling, and I encountered many day riders in this popular area for cycling. The campsite was large and pretty quiet, but water and toilets nowhere near the tent sites. The community room was air conditioned and I was able to hang out there to charge electronics and plan what’s next. I was ready for an extended break so I was able to hire a shuttle service to take me from Washington Island Ferry to Sturgeon Bay where I booked a hotel and connected with a wonderful Warmshowers host who shuttled me southward to next destination. The break after about 370 miles, was so welcome and needed. It was enough to rejuvenate me for the remaining 250 or 300 miles and I really began to enjoy the experience. Still more bikeways and I didn’t mind the monotony of these mostly flat and quiet bikeways. By day 15, 50 miles became easy (was it downhill by then?). I’ve never encountered a dog afraid of me, but this beautiful yellow lab was terrified in spite of my stopping and talking to him. He was running opposite way of his owner but finally ran into the bushes so I got past.
I had a wonderful visit with a Warmshowers host in Waukesha. It is so fun to exchange stories and this couple really are adventurers! They paddled the length of the Mississippi River and wrote a book about it, among other awe inspiring adventures. So I ended the ride on Day 18 with a total of about 560 miles, not what I had planned but enough for sure! The route changed quite a bit along the way but that’s the way things are, bicycle touring. I love the simplicity of touring – where am I going to sleep? What will I eat? Although it got to be a drag to be always checking the weather. I enjoyed the luxury of a roomette on the trip home. Just eating, sleeping, reading and watching the miles roll by. I hope you enjoyed this lengthy diatribe; feel free to comment or ask questions. I encourage everyone who rides to spend some time riding in Wisconsin! Bike trails, some ridden more than once: Robert McClory Trail, Kenosha County Trail, North Shore Trail, River Trail, MRK Trail, Racine County Bike Trail, West Energies Trail, KK Trail, Oak Leaf Trail, Michigan River Trail, Brown Deer Trail, Ozaukee Trail, Mariners’ Trail, Ice Age Trail, Raleigh Trail, Old Plank Trail, Sheboygan Falls Trail, Menimome Parkway, New Berlin Trail, Fox River Trail, Glacial Drumlin Trail, New Belgium Trail, Skokie Valley Trail….
1 Comment
|
Categories
All
Archives
September 2024
|